Thukela Source-to-Sea – Phase 2

The second phase of the Thukela source to sea began on the 22^nd of March with us being dropped off 3km upstream of the Tugela Estates bridge. There were 9 of us who set off that morning to paddle what amounted to about 300km to the Indian ocean, having covered 260km in January.

We had very little rain in February and March, but we had good widespread rain the night before our departure, which we hoped would have some effect on the river. But the river was low, and we started with an extensive section of flatwater. Fortunately, the level improved as we headed downstream with the addition of water from the Bushman’s, Sundays, and Buffalo rivers. It was only lower down that we really felt that we could do with more water, because the Tugela starts to widen and form braided channels where, unless one chooses the optimal channel, scraping on rocks becomes inevitable.

We had some amazing experiences on this trip, and that is really what such expeditions are about. On the first morning, we awoke to the booming of a ground hornbill on the far side of the gorge at first light. Amongst others, we saw Fish Eagles, Openbill, Yellow-billed, and Wooly-necked storks, Goliath herons and African Finfoot. We saw at least one crocodile on most days, but all were medium to small.

While Chris Nowlan, our logistics driver, was waiting for us at the Bassonsdrif bridge on our second day, he was met by a gentleman named Linda, who opened his home to us at no cost. And so it is that, after reaching the bridge just downstream of the Buffalo confluence, we loaded all our boats and trundled back to Linda’s home for the night. “My home is your home” was his comment., and we are most appreciative of his generosity.

A day later, we arrived at the Mfongosi section, famous within the paddling community as the South African equivalent of the Zambesi. There used to be a commercially run rafting operation here some 20-odd years back, and when at high water, the gorge becomes massive. At lower levels, we expected big but fun rapids, and that is what we got. We were joined by Craig van Heerden and his son Matthew. Craig used to guide this section, and he was able to point out the various features which helped us as we paddled this amazing section. Craig and Matthew left us once we reached Jameson’s bridge after having had great fun. I think we will be revisiting this section…….

A few days later, we got to the KwaSizabantu KwaMaqhogo mission, which is situated on the left bank of the Thukela just before it becomes an 800m wide braided system of channels and islands with giant sycamore figs. Ralph, who spearheaded the establishment of this farming operation of KwaSizabantu in 2008, proved to be most hospitable and informative. I had only requested permission to camp at the river and for Chris to be accommodated somewhere, but in addition to this, we were treated to something of a banquet, and we got an opportunity to have a shower. I guess Ralph felt sorry for us when he saw the cans of baked beans and tuna.

From the KwaSizabantu mission it was basically a 90km push towards the ocean. After a night in the bush, and some negotiating of sandbars hidden by the remarkably turbid Thukela water, we arrived at the TVG resort some 8km from the Indian Ocean. The following morning we capitalized on the outgoing tide to take us out through the mouth into the Indian Ocean.

What a remarkable experience it was to surf the breakers of the Indian Ocean and reflect back to how we started in January 560km upstream at the top of the Drakensberg, where the water first seeped out of the upper slopes of the Mont-Aux-Sources peak. The boys completed this expedition with wonderful unity and perseverance, and have developed into accomplished paddlers. More importantly, I believe that they have learned more about themselves and their team and about God, who has given us much to enjoy in the natural world, but never at the expense of the Creator.

Thanks go to the following:

Chris Nowlan, my legendary logistics driver, for his indispensable support and for his innovative decision-making.

Garry Townsend for his support of the expedition in his capacity as the head of outdoor activities at Treverton, and for acting as a sounding-board during the planning.

Kean Broom for his support of the expedition in his capacity as headmaster of the College.

Gustav Gefrath as the official professional guide on the trip.

The families of each pupil involved in this expedition were highly supportive, and I am appreciative of that.

Heste Outram for her enthusiastic organization of the reception of the paddling team at Tugela River Mouth by the different families, and the accommodation arrangements.

Linda and Ralph who accommodated us most generously.

Craig van Heerden for sharing information, and also for showing interest in this expedition by joining us for the Mfongosi section.

written by Mr Derek Brown